Crystal clear

Historically, freshness in perfumery has often been the remit of zingy citruses, herbaceous green accords and uplifting floral bouquets. But with the release of their mineralic new fragrance Eaux d'Artifice, the brand has sought inspiration from an altogether more nocturnal place. Inspired by the beauty of Rome’s Trevi fountain, the fragrance is a love letter to Rome, its architecture and the cool touch of haute joaillerie on the skin. Following on from the release of Fendi’s first full fragrance collection last year, Eaux d'Artifice sees the brand exploring more experimental olfactory territory. 

Rather than the typical burst of lemon or orange, Eaux d'Artifice opens with an unexpected chill – trembling mineral and aquatic accords of perfumer Jérôme di Marino’s creation, evoking moonlight glinting on the marble stone of a Roman piazza. Aldheydic metal notes nod to the coins that well-wishers throw into their crystalline waters, and cypress and juniper add body and a certain earthy resonance. One can imagine the heroines of Fellini films dousing themselves in Eaux d'Artifice before going for a late-night cigarette in a black gown. 

The name “Eaux d'Artifice” is a wordplay on the French feaux d'artifice – fireworks – a fitting reference to the brand’s centenary celebration, as well as a nod to Kenneth Anger’s surreal short film of the same name. In it, a solitary woman roams through the fountains and pathways of the Villa d’Este in Tivoli, Italy, her presence both spectral and decadent. As with the fragrance, the atmosphere is dreamlike, pale blue, with the whisper of something risqué just below the water’s surface. In the often predictable landscape of summer fragrances, Fendi’s creation feels like an ode to mystery, a nocturne for the senses, and a reminder of the brand's 100 years of distinctly Roman heritage.